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Food Aquarium
Prevention of Disease in Aquariums
This is probably one of the most important aspects (although a generalized statement) of keeping a healthy aquarium.
To be even more blunt, my experience in maintaining literally 1000s of aquariums gave me a unique perspective as compared to a pure hobbyist. What I mean is that I (or my employees) were at many clients aquariums only once per week or less, so I did not have the luxury of being able to make sure everything was fine with these fish everyday (kind of like the average hobbyist going away every week for a one or two week vacation and hoping everything would be OK).
So I had to look at EVERY parameter and way to keep a healthy aquarium and I could not rely on the many aquarium keeping myths that still float around in this hobby to keep my customers fish alive. Such as the myth about UV Sterilization or about the quality of many popular brands of fish foods. I have performed tests on everything from UV Sterilization, aquarium electrolytes, Redox Potential, fish foods, filtration, cleaning procedures, to aquarium cycling.
What I found is that if ALL points of disease prevention are practiced from, good filtration and maintenance, feeding quality fish foods (it still surprises me to this day that Spirulina 20 Flake is not that well known considering the huge differences I have seen feeding this fish food), maintaining the right electrolyte levels, a proper Redox level, and UV Sterilization; I had very few losses and many of my newer customers noticed the difference after switching to my service. This is not to say that these are all essential, however the more aquarium prevention procedures you follow the healthier, more colorful, and longer living your fish will be. I have had many in forums criticize me for trying to scare aquarists into needing equipment such as UV Sterilizers, however I think it is far from that as everyone should no what are all the risks and potential ways to keep the healthiest aquarium possible. Put another way would it be honest to tell someone their little goldfish they won at a carnival will do just fine in a bowl and not need anything more? I do not think so. My results speak for themselves.
[1] Cleanliness:
Regular quality water changes are extremely important. By quality I mean to not over clean the water by taking fish out and washing the gravel. You want to use a gravel vacuum and do partial water changes that disrupt the fish as little as possible. The purpose of this is to remove organic debris before it can fully go through the Nitrogen cycle, eventually increasing your Nitrates and lowering your ph. You also want to de-chlorinate the water so as to not stress out the fish or environment. There are many good products for this: Prime, Start Right, Stress Coat, just to name a few.
Another note to regular water changes; these are also important WHEN your fish are sick as well, performed before each treatment. These water changes should also include a thorough “wiping down” of the glass (on ALL sides) to dislodge algae that can harbor disease pathogens.
[2] Good filtration:
I recommend two filters for redundancy, and I never totally throw out all media, rather I rinse part of the filter media in used aquarium water so as to preserve beneficial (aerobic) bacteria for proper biological filtration (ammonia and nitrite removal). Sponge Pre filters are a great addition to HOB filters in particular they improve bio filtration, especially during filter media changes.
Keep in mind that the primary function of filters is to remove waste mechanically and biologically. If your filter is not performing these basic tasks, you need to change or improve your filters.
If you have a bowl, this task is more difficult, so regular water changes (in a bowl I recommend approximately a 2/3 water change) and the addition of products such as Wonder Shells to aid in water quality in between water changes is important
[3] Use ultra violet sterilization:
UV sterilizers prevent many bacterial, fungal, and protozoa diseases. In addition they help with oxidation properties (Redox Potential) of the water and in so doing, water clarity. This is not essential however UV Sterilization is one more piece of the disease prevention puzzle
[4] Do not overfeed! Also feed QUALITY fish foods (not the over hyped brands that dominate the market)
Use quality, aquatic based foods, not foods high in cereal, beef proteins and fats, and soy proteins. Also foods high in unusable amino acids (which make up proteins) add to your nitrogenous wastes which in turn eventually add up to higher nitrates, which although are note a major problem, prolonged exposure to high nitrates will weaken fish and lower disease resistance.
Some good brands: HBH, Ocean Nutrition, Blue Lagoon, Sanyu, Hikari, Spirulina 20, and Omega. Some brands to avoid: Tetra, Hartz.
[5] Watch water chemistry:
Such PH, ammonia (0), nitrites (0), nitrates (below 30 ppm), hardness, KH (80 ppm or higher, depending on the fish), ECT. Note that ammonia is more toxic at a higher ph! A GH around 80 ppm provides the needed calcium for proper osmotic processes and healing from infections and wounds.
Calcium, Magnesium and electrolytes are an often forgotten component of proper aquarium health, however they are ESSENTIAL! For more information about this, please read this article: “CALCIUM, KH, AND MAGNESIUM IN AQUARIUMS; How to maintain a Proper KH, why calcium and electrolytes are important.”
As to pH, many aquarists will spend too much time chasing a “perfect” pH when a STABLE pH is more important (which I can speak to in the 1000s of aquariums I have maintained at different pH and other parameters). I have seen Discus (a fish which comes from waters often under 6.5) breed in aquariums with a pH above 7.5. What is stressful is a pH that is not stable therefore a good KH or acid buffer is important. What I have found FAR MORE IMPORTANT is electrolytes and calcium (which will also affect a good Redox Potential) present than a so called perfect pH. The discus under my care were much more healthy with a KH of around 50 ppm, a GH around 100 ppm and a Redox Potential around -300 mV than with a pH under 6.5 (please note that these numbers just given are for discus, for many fish such as livebearers I kept a much higher KH and GH).
High ammonia and nitrite levels make fish extremely susceptible to infection and will eventually kill the fish outright.
Prolonged nitrate levels above 50 ppm will stunt fish growth and lower fish immunity.
Nitrates (along with Redox) are not a problems for fish health in the short term as ammonia is, however the statement that nitrates are not poisonous is another aquarium keeping myth. Nitrates over 30 ppm have been shown to kill cephalopods and nitrates over 20 ppm (some studies show even lower) have been shown to cause blue baby syndrome in humans, so why would long term exposure to higher nitrates not be detrimental to fish?
For the Full article, please visit this URL:
“AQUARIUM DISEASE PREVENTION; basic principles of disease prevention in aquariums
” Or for my Aquarium Reference article with links to dozens of aquatic information subjests:
About the Author
By Carl Strohmeyer
Is pond pellets a good food source for goldfish in an aquarium?
I feed my coldwater fish king british flake food along with peas, live bloodworms, dried bloodworms, and pond pellets occasionally.
Sure, the bigger the variety, the better, although it sounds like their diet is excellent even if you don't include the pond pellets. Pond pellets are made for goldfish, so if they are big enough to eat them, by all means, feed them to your fish.
Feeding my turtle tank + food tips